Paris’s Hôtel des Grands Voyageurs

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This article is part of FT Globetrotter’s guide to Paris

I recently had a conversation with a fellow North American friend who said that, for all its many attributes, Paris lacks the kind of convivial U-shaped lobby bars that often grace hotels and brasseries on the other side of the Atlantic. The Hôtel des Grands Voyageurs’s handsome brass and wood-panelled number is the first thing you see upon entering the hotel and is a very worthy addition, tempting travellers and passers-by to lean against it as they enjoy a well-mixed cocktail.

Tucked away off Boulevard Raspail, the hotel opened just over a year ago, aiming to offer a well-styled four-star option in Paris’s scant mid-market category, hovering somewhere between the city’s many two- and three-star, family-run establishments of varying quality and the famed palace hotels where rooms might start at €1,300 per night. It bills itself as offering a “transatlantic” concept with a decidedly mid-century feel — from the brass table-top lamps and varnished wood in the bar to the record players and curated selection of vinyls in some of the more expensive rooms. 

Located a few minutes’ stroll from the Luxembourg Gardens and upscale shopping at Le Bon Marché, the Grands Voyageurs is located in a quiet corner of the upscale 6th arrondissement. That said, the plush downstairs speakeasy bar Poppy, where I spied a group of women doing Lemon Drop shots ahead of a night out in Saint Germain’s clubs, is a fine addition to the area’s nightlife. 

Whereas sibling property Hôtel Dame des Arts, which opened in 2023, has more of a “party vibe” — including a very lively rooftop bar when the weather is good — “this is the opposite”, says Imshan Jamal, the managing director of London-based owner EQ Group, which also has properties in Switzerland and the UK, as well as managing a portfolio of franchise hotels across Europe. “We wanted to make it like a hidden, confidential home. More discreet, a bit quieter in a more undiscovered area.” 

The interiors designed by Milan’s Fabrizio Casiraghi are meant to evoke the “golden age of travel”, Jamal says — a time when matching suitcases were stitched in leather, transatlantic voyages were often weeks-long odysseys on ocean liners and flying in planes was still a luxury experience. Inspirations range from sculptures in the nearby Borduelle Museum to 1940s riverboats. The bar area captures this well, with golden-hued uplighting lighting reflecting off mirrors and glassware, and a cocktail menu offering travel-inspired twists on American classics. The bartenders were knowledgeable, mixing an off-menu Boulevardier for my companion and a Lemon Drop for me with ease. 

Rooms

The 130 rooms and eight suites are spacious — for Paris at this price point — and well appointed, with teal carpeting, warm wood panelling and creamy walls and linens. The mid-century stylings extend to the accommodations, with decor and furniture that allude to the period’s ocean liners, from the black-and-cream tiling and porcelain finishings in the bathroom to the chrome desk topped with a green-leather blotter. This nod to retro travel is tastefully done throughout, though the faux-rope railings in the corridors feel a little too on the nose. I ended my evening contentedly listening to Charles Mingus on my in-room record player, while looking out of the window at the quieting street below. 

Restaurant and bar

The restaurant draws heavy inspiration from New York brasserie fare, including a burger, lobster rolls and cheesecake. At the time of our visit, the food and wine, while serviceable, was not memorable — especially when up against the many excellent options Paris offers from simple bistro food to Michelin-starred blowouts. The mignonette lacked punch and the Chenin was a bit flat on the palate, though the steak frites was a solid take on a classic, the oysters plump and lovely and the service attentive.

My fellow diners were a mix of anglophone tourists and French visitors; a well-mannered standard poodle waited patiently under one table for its owners to finish their meal, while a group of twenty-something women blew out candles on a birthday cake and drank champagne. The breakfast spread the next morning was a generous buffet catering to both American (eggs, bacon, cereals) and more continental (toast, fruit, pastries) tastes. 

For those staying for longer, the hotel also offers a compact but well-equipped gym and an infrared sauna. It also rents out electric bikes, though adventurous tourists beware: Paris’s drivers, pedestrians and other cyclists have what one could generously term a flexible approach to the rules of the road. 

I left in the morning feeling refreshed, the sunny December morning a rarity for Paris as I wandered out through the café terraces and Left Bank boutique browsers towards the Luxembourg Gardens. Even though I had only journeyed across the Seine from my apartment, I did feel I had taken a little trip away from my quotidian reality — the sign of a sojourn in a good hotel. 

• Rooms and suites: 130 rooms and eight junior suites; 16 of the rooms can be connected upon request

• Good for: A stylish but relaxing Left Bank stay and a chic nightcap

• Not so good for: Those looking for a high culinary affair

• FYI: The art on display includes bas-relief by sculptor François Gilles and Gustav Klimt prints, while the star-map carpets in the rooms nod to the transatlantic nautical theme

• Rates: Doubles from €380

• Address: 92 Rue de Vaugirard, Paris 75006

• Website; Directions

Adrienne Klasa stayed as a guest of Hôtel des Grands Voyageurs

Do you have a favourite Paris hotel? Tell us about it in the comments below. And follow FT Globetrotter on Instagram at @FTGlobetrotter

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