Actor Filippo Scotti’s insider guide to Naples

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When I moved to Naples, it felt like I had left Italy altogether. I was born in a small town near the Swiss border in the north; my parents relocated here for work when I was eight. The two parts of the country couldn’t be more different.

One of the first things that struck me was how naturally people interact in the streets. In many places, that might seem weird or intrusive; in Naples, it’s filled with a warmth and friendliness that is unique to its people. I like to think of it as a form of street theatre. Growing up here is what ultimately led me to a career in acting.

I started taking drama classes at a former church I stumbled upon on my way to school on Via dei Tribunali – one of the city’s three ancient arteries, known as decumani. Later, I had the opportunity to teach classes myself at Teatro Bellini, a grand 19th-century theatre with a majestic interior; it’s definitely worth a visit.

Teatro Bellini is located in the neighbourhood where I grew up, San Lorenzo, also home to one of my favourite contemporary art museums, Museo Madre. As a child, I spent a lot of time in its permanent exhibition, which includes Dark Brother (2005) by Anish Kapoor, a rectangular-shaped black void set within a white-walled space. Other great museums and galleries showcasing contemporary art here include the Museo Hermann Nitsch and the Thomas Dane Gallery, which also has a space in London.

After my breakout role in Paolo Sorrentino’s 2021 film The Hand of God, I moved to Rome as most auditions take place there. I often travel for work: earlier this year, I filmed The American Backyard, directed by Pupi Avati, which was partly set in Iowa. 

I come back to Naples as often as I can, at least once every two months. I like to go out in San Lorenzo. There’s a place called Buco Pertuso that serves excellent wines. Nearby, the same owner runs Bucolico Forno Pop, a spot where you can grab pizza by the slice. They’ve developed a special rising technique that makes the dough crispy and light – my favourite is the one topped with octopus. 

On nights when I’m in the mood for a proper sit-down meal, I head to Osteria Della Mattonella. If they’re in season, I order friarielli, slightly bitter greens sautéed with garlic and olive oil. At Christmas, my family cooks them with sausage; we’ll have struffoli (deep-fried honey balls) for dessert. For those visiting the city at this time of year, a walk down Via San Gregorio Armeno is a must. You’ll find hundreds of artisans selling handmade figurines for nativity scenes. The atmosphere is very Christmassy.

People interact naturally in the streets

Among my favourite things in Naples are the beautiful, often unexpected courtyards. You walk through old narrow streets, slip through a small door and suddenly find yourself in a grand open space you could never have imagined. There’s the Chiostro del Platano, a 15th-century courtyard with an imposing plane tree at its centre, or the stunning Palazzo Marigliano, a prime example of Renaissance-era architecture. I love spending time there.

Palazzo Marigliano holds a particularly special place in my memory, partly because of Legatoria Artigiana, an old book-binding shop there. Gennaro, a family friend who works at the shop, lent me his Vespa when I was auditioning for The Hand of God. I’d read that my character, Fabietto, rides around Naples on one, and since I’d never ridden a Vespa before, I asked to borrow his. That role changed my life and Gennaro’s Vespa definitely played a part.

Being away from Naples has given me perspective on how much the city has changed. When I first moved here, people said, “Oh wow, good luck.” But there’s been a real effort to make the city more welcoming, and it’s nowhere near as dangerous as it used to be. I think winning the Serie A [Italy’s top football division] in 2023 also helped unite people and strengthen a sense of shared identity. Football is everything here.

When I want to truly feel the city, I walk up the Salita del Petraio. This 500-plus-step staircase takes you through varying neighbourhoods. Recently, I also visited Monte Echia, where an elevator takes you all the way up to the breathtaking Belvedere di Pizzofalcone. From the top, you can see over the peninsula known to us in Naples as Castel dell’Ovo, where the Greeks first arrived more than 2,500 years ago and founded the city. The landscape from up there is stunning. It’s a view I will never get tired of.