Pattaraphan Salirathavibhaga’s guide to Bangkok

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One of my earliest memories of Bangkok was around Thai New Year: getting in the car with my family to visit my grandma and people splashing water and powder onto us. It’s hectic here, but there’s always something going on. 

I lived in New York for five years for college before moving back to Bangkok, where I launched my sustainable jewellery brand Pattaraphan (“beautiful skin” in English) in 2018. There are similarities and differences between the two cities. When it comes to temperament, well, Thailand’s moniker is the Land of Smiles; but in general, the streets are the same – busy melting pots. 

My neighbourhood is in Thonglor, in the Sukhumvit area. Once upon a time it was all canalways and a bit off-the-grid, but growing up it became the centre of nightlife – very convenient until it was not, as I can assure you the Bangkok party culture you see in movies exists plenty. But as people are getting more into art and design – we held our third Biennale this year – the landscape is changing. 

There are only three temperatures: hot, hotter and hottest

One of my favourite creative springs is Chinatown, where new gallery concepts have started to emerge. ATT 19 curates an exhibition of contemporary and traditional works that rotate every one to two months. I’ll often head there before going to one of the bars in the area, such as Tep Bar, where a group of traditional Thai musicians play regularly. I would recommend a gin, butterfly pea and lime candy cocktail called Kal La Krang 1, or “Once Upon a Time”. The bartenders hoist the drinks up and down in a basket to reach guests on the second floor. Pace yourself: they are strong. 

On date nights, my boyfriend and I go to Baan Rim Nam, a bar and café along the waterfront. They lay out tables on the street so it’s a great place to people-watch. Chinatown is one of the only areas where you can get a feel for Old Bangkok and a sense of slow living; there are vendors lining the streets and lots of independent stores. It’s a great spot for street food.

It really is all delicious, but Jeh O has long been on my list to revisit. Just note that seats are in hot demand and the special instant noodle broth only comes out after 10pm. A little further out is Baan E-sarn Muangyos, which serves Isan food – known for its mix of spicy and tangy flavours – so only head there if you like it hot, and be sure to order the papaya salad. 

For an elevated dining experience, I have discovered Haawm, a supper club started by Thai-American chef Dylan Eitharong, who serves family-style dishes with a twist. I’ve been back for the fried cabbage three or four times. Also not to be missed is The Siam hotel – I often go for dinner and always find it incredibly beautiful – and my twin sister’s restaurant, Homeland, which makes the best iced hōjicha latte.

Nearby you’ll find Iradaa, one of my favourite Thai indie clothing brands along with Ruksa Studio, who craft our silk totes. Growing up, both my grandmothers impressed upon me that Thai heritage and craftsmanship is something to be proud of. It’s nice to feel like designers here are beginning to receive recognition on a global scale. It’s definitely something I embrace in my own designs. 

At the weekend, I’ll head to Red Building for a vintage sweep. Be prepared to rummage; I found a pair of Carhartt trousers for the equivalent of £4. It’s also a cool place to hang out. Literally: it’s air conditioned. In Bangkok there are only three temperatures: hot, hotter and hottest. 

Peace and quiet is hard to come by here, but there are pockets. I’ve been going to Divana Spa since I was 17 or 18 for a regular Thai massage; there are a few locations around the city and the price is really good. My friend Michelle Wongthongdee has also started a series of sound‑healing workshops, which offer a dose of escapism. We’ve always been big on yoga retreats but the wellness movement has encompassed more spiritual forms of healing in the past few years. 

There are still so many parts of Bangkok I’ve yet to discover. The best way to get around is on a motorbike taxi – nowadays rush hour starts as early as 2pm! – but you’ll always find the most inspiration by walking down the street. Just beware when New Year comes around and the water and powder starts to fly.