your favourite off-the-beaten-track eateries and bars in Venice

Torrefazione Cannaregio is a roastery in the sestiere of Cannaregio that is over 90 years old. Ideal for a morning pit-stop, it is located by the iron bridge going into the Ghetto. They sell their own blends of coffee, which they will grind for you. They also offer pastries and cakes. There are tables and chairs inside and outside. Order a macchiatone (a Venetian cappuccino — more coffee, less foam) at the bar and then go outside and sit down at one of the tables by the canal. Watch the boat traffic go by (look out for a dog being a faithful pilot or a sandolo boat) and the laundry fluttering above the canals, and let the world pass on by.

— Thomas Coward, academic, Rome

If you are looking for a peaceful glass of wine by the canal while looking at the old gondola boatyard, Squero di San Trovaso, try the little Cantine del Vino già Schiavi.

— Vincent Malige, group chief compliance officer, Paris

A small oasis of Venetian authenticity, Trattoria alla Madonna is tucked away in a side street off the Grand Canal. Walk past it in the morning and the kitchen doors are wide open, offering a view of the staff at work. Inside, this fish and seafood trattoria is bustling with pressed-linen life. It’s real Venice. Memorable. Delicious.

— Laurence Croneen, MD communications consultancy, London

See what Venetian life is really like in one of the few remaining campi not completely destroyed by tourism. For generations (my grandparents spoke highly of it), Pasticceria Rosa Salva has been the perfect spot for watching the comings and goings of the campo: children coming out of school and playing football, elderly people doing their shopping, parents running to the office and the hospital (with its beautiful Renaissance façade) — in short, life in all its cycles. Sitting at an outside tables and enjoying a good coffee and maybe then a spritz and tramezzini (triangular sandwiches) is something I recommend to everyone.

— Marco Boldini, asset management, London (born and bred in Venice)

The courtyard garden of Antica Locanda Montin is a quiet and green spot, ideal for escaping the buzz of the city for a wonderful lunch. And on a sunny afternoon, having takeaway cicchetti and spritz from one of the bars on the Rio de San Trovaso (across from the gondola boatyard) is also delightful.

— Anonymous

There’s a small place near the Rialto called Bacán that serves Latin American fare. Their tasting menu is simply glorious. No doubt the menu has changed according to the seasons, but in April they were serving the most delicate ceviche in a grapefruit-infused brine; an absolutely brilliant lemony fish (not sure which one) steamed and wrapped in collard leaf that tasted of the sea; oyster tacos; and my favourite, a plantain puff. The ambience and service were impeccable. I’d just landed and didn’t have a reservation. I walked in, waited for a few minutes and got a spot at the communal table. It was warm and the decor was all South American colours — ochre hues, and shaded lights. I went back twice during that week, and look forward to going again when I’m back in Venice.

— Renuka, gallerist, New York

The Chet Bar, by a bridge leading north from the Campo Santa Margherita — a piazza where students from the local university outnumber tourists venturing into Dorsodouro — is a gem. In the early evening, the bar offers a calm, quiet atmosphere from which to people watch; at nightfall it becomes a hub of pavement-perching, swallowing revellers retreating from the closing square. The best chance of becoming a young local in Venice is at the Chet Bar.

— Jack Winfield, solicitor, London

Nico on Zattere is the best gelateria you will find on the island. It was recommended to me by a local back in 2017, and without fail it is always my favourite spot. As it is tucked away and on the side of the island further from the most-touristy spots, it is usually filled only with locals. Go for a gianduiotto, served with whipped cream. A nice, hidden (for now) gem for a treat to cool down in the heat and practise your Italian-language skills!

— Sienna Nordquist, PhD student, Milan

For a life-changing biscuit, venture to Pane Focacce Molin on Salizada San Francesco. With no sign, it’s identifiable solely by some bizarre rat-tail-like cables hanging over the door. This clandestine bakery is home to the most “oh baby” almond ricciarelli biscuits in all of Italy. But it’s tricky — you must arrive before 12.45pm and place an order for biscotti alle mandorle. A delightful lady at the counter will tell you exactly when to return the next day. Bring cash and feast. In my life, I’ve tasted the finest biscuits available to humanity.

— Louis Elton, anthropological consultant, London

Pasticceria Tonolo is on a T-junction behind the Church of San Pantalon. (nb, it is closed on Mondays). Inside is a long and narrow room, the bar and till are at the end, and on the left is a counter filled generously with an assortment of pastries and cakes overseen by ladies in pink coats. Customers (ie, Venetians) drink and eat at the bar: there is no seating. Tea and coffee are served in blue and white china cups and saucers. Among the pastries, try a bignè or meringhe, or one of their small pistachio treats. If you wish to take some pastries away, the ladies will carefully box them for you. During Carnival, do order the frittelle, then go to some other cafés and compare (and then go back!).

— Thomas Coward, academic, Rome

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