How to wear romantic shirts

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Pack up your plain white and pale blue shirts — there’s a sultry new wave sweeping through men’s wardrobes. Paul Mescal’s Gucci-packed Gladiator II tour outfits set the tone. From the lace-fronted shirt the Irish actor wore with a slim-cut black suit at the 2024 Governors Awards in California, to the undone silk pussy-bow blouses he sported to the London and Dublin premiers of the Ridley Scott epic, there wasn’t a fuss-free shirt in sight. Mescal’s look was dishevelled yet deliberate. He evoked a young Heathcliff, fresh from a misty afternoon hacking the moors.

What might once have been dismissed as overly fey now feels like an exciting new direction for men’s eveningwear — an elegant, wearable alternative to the traditional dress-shirt-and-bow-tie combinations that have reigned for decades. Consider Jonathan Bailey’s open-chested silk number at the Emmys or Barry Keoghan looking every bit the boozy Victorian workhouse owner in a droop-necked Dolce & Gabbana pussy bow at the Governors Awards.

This sartorial shift isn’t limited to men who walk the red carpet. Leading designers have placed extravagant shirting at the heart of their autumn/winter 2024 menswear collections. At Loewe, Jonathan Anderson presented exaggerated pussy bow shirts in silk, denim and cashmere. Simone Rocha’s poplin shirts featured oversized neckties that would have made Lord Byron weak at the knees, while Alessandro Michele’s first collection for Valentino offered organza reimaginings of Tudor neck ruffs.

“We are seeing early signs of a more fashion-forward customer moving away from classic shirts and seeking more elaborate pieces,” says Bosse Myhr, the buying director of menswear, womenswear and childrenswear at Selfridges. “They are looking for the perfect romantic shirt, including intricate, highly detailed pieces from brands like Chateau Orlando, Bode, Valentino or Charles Jeffrey.” The rise in popularity is reflected at Mr Porter. In November searches for “silk shirts” increased by 143 per cent.

The latest take on romantic shirting has deep roots in the gender-fluid fashion revolution of the past decade. When Michele debuted his first Gucci collection in 2015, the industry was agog for his new vision of masculinity — highlighted by organza pussy-bow shirts paired with jewel-toned suits. It was a watershed moment, opening the door for brands such as Saint Laurent and Phix, along with style icons Harry Styles, Sam Smith and Harris Reed, to embrace a bold, androgynous aesthetic.

“The idea of ‘modern masculinity’ in fashion has been a hot topic for a while, and once major style influences like [Harry] Styles and Pharrell Williams donned more playful styles it was only a matter of time before it seeped into the wider consciousness,” explains stylist Rose Forde, who works with clients including Cillian Murphy and Joe Alwyn. “It shows a strong sense of self when a man can lean into their flamboyant or romantic side. Shirts with a built-in feature such as a pussy bow or a unique collar paired with a simple tuxedo or dinner suit is the perfect way to do this.”

Stacey Wood, founder and creative director of gender-fluid brand King & Tuckfield, agrees. “There’s a growing acceptance of fluidity in both fashion and society,” she says. Wood’s AW24 collection features wrap-style shirts and exaggerated collars crafted from soft, flowing fabrics like viscose and silk. “We’re seeing a strong move towards florals, open shirts and softer fabrics as a way for men to express their individuality. Red-carpet suiting isn’t as rigid as it once was and that’s inspiring men to try styles they might not have considered before.”

This isn’t the first time men have embraced romantic shirts. The New Romantic movement of the late 1970s and early ’80s was born as a flamboyant response to the bleakness of the era, exemplified by style icons such as Adam Ant and Steve Strange. “Are we in a similar moment now?” Asks stylist Tom Stubbs. “Perhaps. The original movement was about inventing drama and escapism during difficult times. A small group of expressive outsiders plundered vintage clothing — including actual theatre pieces — and conjured up “romantic” statements by looking back to silver-screen idols Rudolph Valentino and Errol Flynn. Today, with our own uncertainties, men might be drawn to the retrospective aesthetic of these shirts.”

Stubbs adds: “The current preference for soft, billowy shirts also sits in stark contrast to the corporate rigidity of fitted shirts and ties. It’s a rebellion against the mainstream hyper-masculinity embodied by figures such as Andrew Tate or Donald Trump. This blousy, feminine aesthetic is a welcome point of difference — it’s sexy, unexpected and anything but boring.”

While such slinky, romantic shirts might raise eyebrows if worn to the office, they’re perfect for occasions with a formal or semi-formal dress code. Pair a loose, silk pussy-bow shirt — worn slightly undone — with a classic tuxedo for a chic take on black tie or if that feels too challenging, simply opt for an officer’s shirt with a band collar in the same tone as your suit. Alternatively, try a slouchy collared satin shirt in bone or off-white from King & Tuckfield or Tom Ford with a bow tie (or no tie at all) for a look that’s equal measures sensual and sensitive.

“Even a basic voluminous satin or viscose shirt worn a size or two up can transform your evening wardrobe,” says Stubbs. “These shirts let men express individuality in a way that feels exciting, and completely their own.”

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