A-list dressing: tips from celebrity stylists

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At the world’s biggest luxury companies, there is a lack of female creative directors. But one area of the fashion industry where women are being recognised, and excelling, is in the styling of high-profile men. In recent years, red carpets have become extensions of the runway, with film stars almost becoming the new supermodels — take Cillian Murphy’s awards-season wardrobe, styled by Rose Forde, which earned him the recent Versace Icons campaign.

From Felicity Kay dressing her client Paul Mescal in thirst-trap short shorts, to Forde, who sorted Joe Alwyn out with his recent Bottega Veneta-filled wardrobe, a talented wave of women are bringing a fresh level of polish and originality to the clients they clothe. What are the secrets behind their success?

A defining trait of these stylists is their commitment to classic elegance over fleeting trends. “I try to promote a sense of style through my work, rather than one of ‘fashion’,” says Forde. “Style should look natural and effortless, it comes from within. I work with people who are intriguing and intelligent and my job is to translate their personality through their own sense of style.” Their methods also offer some great pro tips and inspiration when it comes to non A-list individuals styling themselves.

Julie Ragolia, who styles the Zegna menswear show and has worked with clients including Riz Ahmed, Pedro Pascal and LaKeith Stanfield, believes that the essence to great styling lies in storytelling. By crafting a narrative, she ensures her clients feel at ease, whilst also capturing the attention of the scroll-happy Instagram audience — think Ahmed appearing on the 2022 Met Gala carpet wearing an oversized shirt jacket from Salvadoran designer Angelo Urrutia of 4S Designs, along with a Cartier necklace inspired by his Indian heritage; or Stanfield donning a ’70s-inspired Saint Laurent jumpsuit to the 2021 Oscars as a reflection of his “playful” personality.

“I want people to feel connected to what they see,” Ragolia explains. “I love clothes. I love that each and every one of us has a relationship to clothes in that we share our personal stories through them. I’m merely trying to find common links among varied individual tastes,” she says. “That, and I know how a tailored garment should look on a man. Understanding form and precision are crucial to being a good stylist.”

Ensuring that an outfit reflects a star’s personal values is increasingly important. The Met Gala reflected this shift, as the red carpet was awash with archival looks — from Zendaya in Galliano-era Dior to Kendall Jenner in vintage Givenchy.

“Most of the men I work with are concerned about the environment and the impact the fashion industry has on the planet,” Ragolia explains. “Re-using looks, sourcing vintage and second hand or restyling existing wardrobe pieces are all pre-requisites of styling these days. It used to be a trend, but the approach is becoming more mainstream, as it should be.”

Ragolia gets to know her clients intimately to discern which labels might best suit their character. “I seek brands out in order to express a particular personality or story I may wish to tell. This could be from a most known brand to one that is obscure.” For Forde it’s all about one Parisian label in particular. “I love the energy of Saint Laurent at the moment,” she says. “You can see the references in the collections, but it also feels modern and sexy.”

We all know how demoralising it can be to try on a garment in a shop changing room, only to discover that it pulls in all the wrong places and makes you look like a downlit sausage, squeezed into an unflattering skin. Catherine Hayward, the woman responsible for many of Benedict Cumberbatch’s red carpet looks, says, “if I take two sizes of the same piece I always start the fitting with the bigger size, which usually means that the ensuing ‘oh, you’ve lost weight — we need the smaller waistline’ conversation will instil a client with a renewed sense of confidence.”

Yet crucially, your clothes also need to fit properly. The first step in that process, says Forde, is to “invest in a good tailor, who knows the best sartorial tricks to make clothes suit your body shape”. She explains: “on the carpet my clients have nowhere to hide, and they need to look great from all angles. A little nip on the waist of the jacket can enhance a physique and perfectly hemmed trousers definitely wins points.”

Perhaps visiting a tailor, the nearest some of us will get to couture or bespoke, is the best tip of all. The tailor you pick needn’t have a premises on Savile Row, as a host of talented cutters can be found in little rooms above the restaurants of Soho’s Kingly Street and in similar spots from Manchester’s Deansgate to Old Leith Street in Edinburgh.

Alternatively, Hayward recommends repair and alteration website The Seam and app Sojo. “Whether it’s a sleeve shortening, a moth hole, a rip or a simple re-heel, upload a photo and description to the app, they find your nearest specialist and you simply post it off,” suggests Hayward. “Also, invest in a proper steamer. It takes the stress out of clothing maintenance and is often better for clothing longevity, as is the use of good quality hangers — especially for heavier coats and jackets. Pesky wire hangers can do serious damage to shoulders.”

A properly tailored approach needn’t be limited to suits. Any garment you plan to wear repeatedly should be cut to fit perfectly, regardless of the fabric. “Tailor your denim,” agrees Forde. “A pair of great fitting jeans will always look ace.”

If all else fails — and you don’t have a world-beating female stylist on speed dial — trust your instincts and enjoy yourself. “People need to have more fun and listen to their own inner voice,” says Ragolia.

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