A chef’s guide to London’s top Sunday lunches

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I didn’t grow up eating a traditional Sunday roast. We used to have leftovers instead, which was something I would always look forward to. My mum is an amazing cook, so they were always a cut above your average fare. While I don’t have memories of traditional Sunday-roast tables laden with glistening joints of meat and Yorkshire puddings, I’ve always appreciated the ritual of a weekend lunch and sitting around the table as a family, which I bring to the fore at The Camberwell Arms.

To me, focusing too rigidly on the components of a traditional roast overlooks the true importance of sitting down together and sharing a meal. That’s why I prefer to call it Sunday lunch. The goal is to enjoy a few leisurely hours with friends or family, savouring food and each other’s company.

With this in mind, I’ve put together a list of my favourite spots for a Sunday lunch across London. It includes three pubs, each offering something comfortingly recognisable but distinctly their own, and three restaurants which embrace the communal dining experience.

Pubs

Canton Arms (Stockwell)

177 South Lambeth Road, London SW8 1XP

I worked at this London institution for several years some time ago, and as pub roasts go this is up there among the best. Charlie Bousfield and Trish Hilferty, the owners, have worked hard over the years to maintain the feel of a proper boozer without compromising on the quality of the food. Roast beef, roast potatoes, horseradish crème fraîche and watercress is your benchmark single roast, but expect big sharing dishes for the table. Lunch at the Canton Arms feels like a family affair, and it’s perfect precisely because of that. Website; Directions

The Clarence Tavern (Stoke Newington)

102 Stoke Newington Church Street, London N16 0LA

A long Sunday lunch at the Stoke Newington outpost from the guys behind The Anchor and Hope in Waterloo is hard to beat. Similar in style to The Camberwell Arms or the Canton Arms, but certainly distinct — once again, sharing roasts take centre stage, alongside one of the deepest and most exciting wine lists in London, curated by Sam Gleeson, a good friend and truly obsessive collector of beautifully made wines. Website; Directions

The Waterman’s Arms (Barnes)

375 Lonsdale Road, London SW13 9PY

Sam Andrews, the chef at Waterman’s, was my head chef for four years and is one of my favourite chefs in London. He’s not just a talented and thoughtful cook, but also a lovely man. His Sunday menu spans porchetta and slow-roasted lamb to share, while also showcasing Sam’s love for the best seasonal produce. Attention to detail is key to Sam’s cookery, and this beautiful riverside pub makes for a perfect spot to luxuriate over a long lunch with friends. Website; Directions

Restaurants 

Selale (Harringay)

1-2-3 Salisbury Promenade, Green Lanes, London N8 0RX

I was once taken to this Turkish restaurant on Green Lanes by a Turkish restaurateur and immediately fell in love upon seeing the massive team of chefs working along an enormously long charcoal grill. They offer a mixed-grill plate that features almost the entire menu, served with rice, bread, and sauces for the table. The plate includes koftas, shish, lamb ribs and even grilled quail, all perfectly seasoned, spiced and cooked. I love that the portion size is determined by the number of diners, enhancing the ad hoc communal-dining experience. Website; Directions

Pique Nique (Bermondsey)

Pique Nique always serves up a variety of sharing main courses, each one absolutely delicious. Whether it’s the comforting roast chicken with herb sauce, fries and salad, or the classic veal fillet en croûte with petit pois à la française, these dishes are perfect for a delightful, albeit non-traditional, French-leaning Sunday lunch. Website; Directions

Royal China

locations across London

Dim sum is some of my favourite Sunday fare. I need very little persuasion to go out to eat Chinese food (frankly, any opportunity is good for me), but perhaps the experience of dim sum is my favourite — and Royal China is one of those London establishments you can rely on again and again. (There are a handful of venues around the city, but Baker Street is my preferred branch.) There is something about many little beautiful plates or steamer baskets filled with glutinous and savoury deliciousness that will never get old to me. A big round table with a Lazy Susan in the middle groaning with good food feels like the epitome of communal dining. Website; Directions

Mike Davies is the chef-director of The Camberwell Arms in London SE5, and the author of Cooking for People

Who in your opinion does London’s most delicious Sunday lunch? Tell us in the comments below. And follow FT Globetrotter on Instagram at @FTGlobetrotter

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