Travels with the ‘world’s best sommelier’

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One of the great joys of my job is the travel it involves, because nothing beats actually visiting the vineyards, and meeting the people who shape the wines you love. And more people than ever are now embracing oenotourism. In the summer of 2023, Airbnb saw vineyard accommodation bookings in Europe increase by around 20 per cent. 

It’s good timing, therefore, for Assouline to launch its Wine & Travel series, a new collection of illustrated region-by-region guides to some of the world’s top wine-producing countries. The first two guides, covering Italy and France, are written by Enrico Bernardo, a wine expert, author and restaurateur who made his name at the Four Seasons George V in Paris where he was crowned the “world’s best sommelier”.

Not every sommelier is a great writer, but Bernardo has a nice way with words, deftly mixing local colour and more technical information about the wines and terroir with personal anecdotes to create an introduction to regions stretching from the Loire to the Adriatic Coast. At the back of each guide there is also a useful glossary of wine terms and a list of must-try producers, entitled “Enrico Bernardo’s Ideal Wine Cellar” – a section, I’m sure, that many readers will actually turn to first.

“Visiting a vineyard allows wine lovers to truly appreciate the origin and character of the wine, providing a much richer experience,” says Bernardo. “When you later savour that same bottle at the table or at home, you’re transported back to the sights, sounds and stories from your visit.”

Wear sensible shoes and bring something warm to don in the cellar

A vineyard visit doesn’t need to be a major undertaking, he says: “Many are located near major cities. I recently returned from Barcelona, where just 30 minutes away lies the Penedès wine region, renowned for its culinary offerings. The same applies to Florence, where you can find numerous wine regions within an hour’s drive.” And many wineries, he adds, now offer a panoply of other experiences, from vinous spa treatments and vineyard tours by hot-air balloon to Michelin-starred restaurants.

One of Bernardo’s favourite destinations is Alsace, “which possesses a strong identity and a distinctive gastronomy that pairs beautifully with the local wines”. He also loves Corsica, “which captivates me with its Mediterranean atmosphere and the stunning contrast between the mountains and sea, especially in spring – it’s simply magical”. For those seeking a more “back to nature” experience, he says the dramatic Jura region “is ideal, where the locals exhibit an incredible passion for their terroir”.

Wine & Travel France, £100, assouline.com

Wine & Travel Italy, £100, assouline.com

In Italy, “the Piedmont region during the white truffle season in October, November, and December is extraordinary, as the bustling restaurants offer exquisite food paired with outstanding wines. In spring, I love visiting the area around Mount Etna, where the impressive volcano showcases striking contrasts between the volcanic soil and lush greenery. For those who value authenticity and simplicity in both wine and cuisine, I highly recommend the Abruzzo region.” 

His top tips for visiting wineries? Take a notebook, wear sensible shoes and bring something warm to don in the cellar. “And avoid wearing perfume, as it can interfere with the wine’s aromas,” he adds (a bit of advice I’ll second).

These guides are intended as an amuse-bouche, rather than a nuts-and-bolts address book – if you want details of hotels or restaurants then you’ll need to look elsewhere. But if you’re wondering which region to visit next – or, indeed, which wines to taste – then Assouline’s Wine & Travel guides are ideal. The third guide – to California – will be published next spring. 

Wine & Travel France and Wine & Travel Italy are published by Assouline at £100 each

@alicelascelles