For an easy update, try a neckerchief

When Stefano Pilati was appointed as creative director of Yves Saint Laurent in 2004, he chose photographer David Bailey to capture his official portrait. In the image, the designer wears a white T-shirt, a dark blazer draped over his shoulders and a perfectly tied polka-dot silk neckerchief. His outfit is simple, but the addition of a small square scarf makes him look devil-may-care, like a high-fashion wizard set on casting a spell over the industry. “A neckerchief remains the non-binary accessory par excellence,” Pilati told me recently.

Neckerchiefs like Pilati’s have made a strong resurgence for both autumn/winter 2024 and spring/summer 2025, with brands such as Hermès, Giorgio Armani, Begg & Co and Our Legacy spotlighting silk, wool and cashmere styles in their collections. Style leaders such as Tyler, the Creator, and new Tom Ford designer Haider Ackermann have also embraced the look, proving that a neckerchief is once again the optimal way to bring flair to a simple outfit.

“We have expanded our investment in neckerchiefs for spring/summer 25,” says Sophie Jordan, buying director of menswear for luxury etailer Mytheresa. “While still a micro-trend, such scarves were a prominent styling element. Dunhill showcased this perfectly, whilst brands like Valentino embraced a more maximalist approach. Neckerchiefs offer men a simple yet impactful update to their wardrobe.”

Fashion has been going through a subdued phase of late, with the much-touted “quiet luxury” trend dominating the runways. The resulting minimalist clothes have spoken in a kind of sartorial whisper, often lacking in joie de vivre — but the revival of the neckerchief hints that menswear might be on the brink of moving in a more expressive direction. “The return of neckerchiefs reflects a shift back towards maximalist sensibilities,” agrees Jordan.

One place where the neckerchief never fell out of favour is Drake’s, the Savile Row men’s outfitter known for easy separates and an emphasis on refined accessories — scarves, ties, brightly coloured pocket squares and natty neckerchiefs included. “I’ve seen a lot of younger men experiment with bandannas and neckerchiefs recently,” says the brand’s creative director Michael Hill. “They’re bold, certainly, but they’re also a loose and fairly insouciant accessory. Neckerchiefs are a consistent seller for us.”

So, how to wear a neckerchief in 2024? There is always a risk that tying a piece of silk around your neck will make you look self-consciously foppish, like a wannabe Beau Brummell. “For everyday wear, leave your shirt unbuttoned at the neck and tuck the neckerchief underneath the collar, leaving the knot to peep over the top so it feels more relaxed,” says GQ’s fashion editor Angelo Mitakos. “I opt for a colourful neckerchief when wearing all black. It’s an easy way to add a pop of colour. And on those semi-cool autumn days, it’s a perfect lightweight alternative to a scarf.”

For public relations executive and confirmed neckerchief wearer Juan Miguel Mora Yanes, the key to success lies in starting simple. “A neckerchief is usually the finishing touch to any of my outfits, or a way for me to express my personality,” he says. “I like to wear them on any occasion — smart or casual. For beginners, start with a muted colour and make sure the neckerchief isn’t too big. That way it will feel like an understated addition to your outfit, as opposed to something too dominant.”

Once you start looking, it’s easy to find examples of stylish men wearing neckerchiefs in a way that feels elegant, without being too showy or dandified. Consider Cary Grant pairing a red neckerchief with a Breton top in 1955’s To Catch a Thief, or the many neckerchiefs Elvis rocked during his 1968 comeback. “James Baldwin immediately springs to mind in terms of neckerchief style icons,” says Hill. “He made wearing one look like the easiest and most stylish thing in the world. Marlon Brando smouldered in a loosely tied neckerchief, showing that it doesn’t have to be something worn with a velvet dinner jacket, and then on the younger side, Tyler, the Creator, is a natural.” A neckerchief can pair just as easily with a crew-neck T-shirt or sweatshirt.

When choosing your own neckerchief, one chic approach is to select a piece that complements the dominant colour palette of your wardrobe. If you often wear shades of navy, a blue silk or cashmere neckerchief from Soho Scarves, Begg & Co or Universal Works would look good. Alternatively, pick a contrasting yet complementary scarf that will add a punch of colour. A soft pink neckerchief with an all-navy get-up, for instance, or a classic red bandanna with shades of brown, tan and mustard.

If yours is a more monochromatic style, a black cashmere option from Johnstons of Elgin or a knitted bandanna from Toast might be ideal. Prioritise comfort when selecting the fabric, as you won’t want to wear something that feels scratchy against your skin. “For me, it’s all about going vintage. That, or Drake’s or Hermès,” says Mitakos. “Just make sure the neckerchief you pick is made from silk or a super-soft cotton so it hangs well. Rigid cotton will make the knot look clunky.”

If you choose to go vintage, your best bet is a classic printed silk scarf in a bold pattern, as there’s no shortage of personality on the preloved market. A piece from Gianni-era Versace or a decommissioned Hermès Twilly would be ideal, and both can be found in abundance on Vestiaire Collective. However, you’ll also find a wide selection of unbranded patterned silk scarves at Beyond Retro, Rokit or even eBay.

The manner in which you tie your neckerchief is as important as the scarf itself. I find that rolling the fabric tight works best — anything approximately 65 sq cm is ideal, as a larger size will feel bulky, while a smaller one can be too tricky to tie neatly. Grazia’s senior fashion features editor Henrik Lischke suggests leaving some fabric loose at the back of the neck for a more relaxed look. “I go for a bandanna style at the back, with a boy-scout knot at the front — a simple triangle double-tie, close to the neck.”

Alternatively, you could secure your neckerchief with a clasp at the throat, mimicking the refined style of the staff at the Hermès head office in Paris, as Lischke notes: “Instead of tying it in a knot, one particularly well-dressed gentleman tied his at the front with a leather strap, and matched the colours of his scarf to his knitwear. It didn’t look outlandish or flamboyant, but rather chic and relaxed.”  

“I love putting a metal ring — like a napkin ring but smaller — where the knot should be and then using it to hold the scarf in place,” says Mitakos. “This adds some detail and a bit of bling to an outfit, which is never a bad thing,” he explains. “Also, it’s important to think about where you place the knot of your neckerchief. I prefer it positioned at the middle of the throat, as putting your knot to the side runs the risk of looking a little ‘air steward’.”

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