How to do Hogmanay in Edinburgh

This article is part of FT Globetrotter’s guide to Edinburgh

Outdoor activities in the freezing-cold Scottish night may sound gruelling, but Edinburgh’s New Year’s festival has enough fire and flame to keep you warm. The city’s four-day celebration of Hogmanay (the Scottish word for the last day of the year) kicks off with a torchlit parade dating back to pagan times — and culminates in cannons and fireworks erupting from the medieval castle that overlooks the city. In the days between, revellers sing their hearts out, dance at ceilidhs (traditional Scottish folk dances) and cradle hot toddies outside fogged-up pub windows. The partying comes to an abrupt end on January 1 with a swim in the frigid Firth of Forth. 

Hogmanay has been the primary winter celebration in Scotland ever since Christmas “Yule” was banned in 1640 during the Protestant reformation, and New Year’s Eve stepped in to satisfy the need for an end-of-year blowout. Ironically for the Protestants, the ban revived pagan customs across Scotland such as house cleaning on the “night afore” the new year to sweep away any lingering bad fortune, fire parades and first-footing — the belief that the first person to cross the threshold on January 1 will bring good or bad fortune to the household for the year ahead. The most desirable first-footers were dark-haired men bearing gifts like whisky, coal or peat for heating, bread and silver coins.

In Edinburgh, candlelit Hogmanay gatherings used to take place around the 17th-century Tron Kirk church, culminating with a rendition of “Auld Lang Syne”, the poem by Robert Burns set to folk music. The celebration grew wilder over time and attracted more visitors, and in 1993 the city organised the first official street party occupying the main thoroughfare of Princes Street and Gardens. A traditional element is retained with the candlelit concert in St Giles Cathedral on the evening of December 31.

Over time, more festivities were added to the street party, and Hogmanay now encompasses a whole programme of ticketed events, so popular that advance planning is strongly recommended. Below is a timeline that will help you navigate the nights leading up to New Year’s Eve, and the Eve itself. 

Be sure to wear plenty of warm clothing, bring a Thermos and hip flask as there are no pubs in prime viewing spots such as Princes Street and Calton Hill, and prepare to stay out all night. When the fireworks explode in the ink-black Scottish sky, link arms with those around you to sing “Auld Lang syne”, and drink a traditional dram of whisky to “you and yours”.

Torchlight Procession (December 29)

To kick off four days of festivities, the organisers of the Edinburgh Hogmanay street party revived a historic tradition found in rural Scotland, the torchlit parade. They took inspiration from the famous one in the Perthshire village of Comrie, a ritual believed to date back to pagan times. The Comrie Flambeaux is meant to cleanse the village of evil spirits, and the torches are symbolically thrown into the River Earn at the end. In Edinburgh, the procession begins at 7.30pm, in the tree-lined avenues of the Meadows. The park comes alive with flames and the smell of smoked wax as some 20,000 torchbearers, accompanied by pipers and drummers, march just over a mile through the Meadows, over George IV Bridge, along Johnston Terrace and up to the castle gates, torches held aloft like a Viking invasion. This year, Shetland islanders who throw the legendary Viking-inspired Up Helly Aa fire carnival at the end of January will travel down to Edinburgh to add extra pagan panache to Hogmanay. 

Arrive at the Meadows before 6pm. A torch costs £20 and procession wristbands are £7.50. Buy tickets here

New Year’s Eve Ceilidhs

On the early evening of December 31, a ceilidh used to take place under the castle in West Princes Street gardens, but it has moved indoors to the Assembly Rooms on George Street. Two are scheduled: one at 2pm (the Bairns’ New Year Revels, a family event) and another at 9pm. Ceilidhs are the simplest and best way for a large group to mingle. First-timers might bump into others and spin off in random directions, but this is all part of the fun and should be embraced. It’s hard to go too far wrong, as callers guide you through the simple steps before each dance begins. Then a live folk band of strings and accordions blasts out classic ceilidhs such as the Gay Gordons, Strip the Willow, Postie’s Jig and more, and organised chaos ensues. The millennium Hogmanay ceilidh even set a world record: almost 2,000 people swinging along George Street in the longest-ever Strip the Willow line. 

Hogmanay Street Party & Concert in the Gardens

Two simultaneous ticketed events, with singers, bands and DJs taking to stages across Princes Street and Gardens, Castle Street and Waverley Bridge. Previous Concert in the Gardens headliners have included Pulp, Primal Scream, Pet Shop Boys and Blondie; this year it’s Glasgow’s Texas and Edinburgh singer-songwriter Callum Beattie. From 8pm, tickets from £72.50; book here.

For the Hogmanay Street Party, arrive well in advance, at least before 9pm, as it gets extremely busy. At the stroke of midnight, fireworks erupt from the castle in time to dramatic music from a live orchestra. At the end, crowds along the whole of Princes Street join hands and sing “Auld Lang Syne”. Toasts are made with drams of whisky, and when the fireworks finish, everyone dances through the streets to music as best as they can, given the seething mass of people. From 8pm, tickets from £30; book here

Calton Hill

In recent years, I’ve dodged the street party and watched the scene for free from the top of Calton Hill, a high point just above Princes Street that’s still close enough to feel part of the action. (Those who want to get an aerial view of the city can trek up the larger hill of Arthur’s Seat). For me, Calton Hill is the most atmospheric place to bid farewell to the year: the misty Firth of Forth lies behind, Arthur’s Seat is off one side, brooding over Edinburgh, and the city lights twinkle below. Like the street party, this spot is also crowded, but with little groups of friends clutching picnics of hot sausages wrapped in foil, Thermoses of booze-infused hot chocolate and packs of sparklers. Directions

New Year’s Eve elsewhere

For a more intimate experience, head to Inverleith Park in Edinburgh’s north to watch the fireworks from a distance. Here, the fun is free and more family-focused, with midnight picnics and people bringing instruments. Advance planners could also aim to make a reservation at Chaophraya restaurant for top-end Thai food and rooftop views across to the castle, or try the similarly scenic W hotel’s Lounge. On the south side of town, Bruntsfield Links parkland by the Meadows also gives good castle vistas. Have a “Hogmanay Hoolie” dinner at the cosy Golf Tavern pub then step outside on to the Links at midnight to see the sky light up.

New Year’s Day Loony Dook

Hungover? If so, join the thousands of people across Scotland who take a limb-numbing fancy-dress swim in freezing waters on New Year’s Day. The nearest “Loony Dook” to Edinburgh is South Queensferry, beneath the Forth Rail Bridge. A drum band marches through the streets as hundreds of “dookers” in wacky costumes ranging from tartan warriors to flamingos prepare to fling themselves into the icy waters off the Fife coast. Bring a flask and instant porridge as pubs will not be open that early in the morning, though the party atmosphere remains. It’s all for charity, a thought that may warm you up as you shiver on the journey back to Edinburgh (there are usually bookable bus transfers arranged for the Loony Dook). Tip: don’t be fooled if you see locals wearing trunks and bikinis. If you come from warmer climes, exercise caution and be mindful of hypothermia. This swim is for the reckless and the brave. From 1pm; further information here

If you’re planning to be in Edinburgh over the festive season, how will you celebrate Hogmanay? Tell us in the comments below. And follow FT Globetrotter on Instagram at @FTGlobetrotter

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